Celebrating Chardonnay

“We hardly ever talk about New Zealand chardonnay yet a decade ago it was the country’s most widely planted grape,” the Telegraph’s Victoria Moore writes. “As recently as 21 there were 333 hectares of chardonnay growing across the North and South islands compared to just 2843 of sauvignon blanc and 1491 of pinot noir. Now, New Zealand’s pinot noir has earned itself a serious reputation. Chardonnay, meanwhile, has grown gently — and all too quietly. Then there’s the question of the price. ‘I think New Zealand’s future in chardonnay is in the £12-£2 range,’ says the smiley Steve Smith of Craggy Range, whose Beaux Cailloux is one of the country’s best. At a slightly higher level, though, the wines start to dazzle. That’s not just about them being expensive; in terms of quality they compete hard for your English pounds.”