We’re All Invited

The first recipe New Zealander Margot Henderson tried was the ginger crunch from the Edmonds Cookery Book, the New Zealand household bible, The Guardian’s Rachel Cooke writes. And then there were the snails. “I was about eight or nine. We were studying France at school. So we took all the snails from the garden. We drowned them, and then we fried them up with breadcrumbs. Henderson owns the Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch, London. She came here eight years ago with her business partner Melanie Arnold; mostly, they needed a base, not to mention a kitchen, for their catering company, Arnold & Henderson. You could say her new cookbook You’re All Invited is a life’s work in 300 pages: a load of reliable things that are easy to make and delicious to eat from salt cod and potato bake to cabbage and truffle spaghetti. “White food is so chic,” she says simply, before telling you how to make brandade.